Barista Magazine is your home for the worldwide community of coffee and the people who make it.
Issue link: http://baristamagazine.epubxp.com/i/118056
Farmers in this particular co-op generally have no other source of income besides their coffee. Though the Sidamo region has been heavily visited by coffee buyers seeking the spectacular crops the area is known for, we're still a sight to see it seems. Every time we exit the truck, we're flocked by children who cry Hello, hello, hello! They yell loudly and almost aggressively, and we call our greetings back. We walk through the front gates of the co-op, noting the medical station, the large pantry. We continue to the spacious office of the co-op leaders, which is tidy and colorful, with posters covering almost every inch of wall space. The posters are charts counting the residents, the coffee supply, and weather patterns, all carefully hand printed over the years in Magic Markers. The leaders thank Sarah and Jonathan for their purchases and loyalty to Fero, and Sarah and Jonathan smile back. But they want the nitty-gritty. They want to know how the year has been, where production is. How's the work on the new wet mill coming along? Kyle determine what is myth about FLO and what is true. It doesn't matter for this farm anyway; it is an estate, and therefore isn't eligible for Fairtrade certification. But it's important to Kyle to dispel some of the falsehoods that unfortunately exist surrounding certifications and Fairtrade specifically (see "Navigating Fair" in this issue for more information). Today is a special day for Sarah and Jonathan: They are here to see the new drying beds that sales of this coffee through Bean There have awarded the growers. Here's why: Every year, Sarah and Jonathan select one exceptional coffee to be featured as their Olga's Reserve, and in 2012, it was this coffee from Shakiso. Remember how I said family is everything to the Robinsons? Olga "Polly" Robinson was Sarah and Jonathan's beloved grandmother, a woman who continues to have, though she has passed, an influence of positivity and humanitarianism on her grandchildren. Olga's Reserve is an annual reminder of her, as well as a commemoration of her life. Not only that, the coffee selected each year to be Olga's Reserve is sold in Bean There cafés for a premium, and that money goes directly back This is more, and better, food than most of these people eat in a given week. In fact, such a feast is likely an annual reward. But the producers are thrilled to treat Jonathan and Sarah—they feel a kinship that is as close as family with the Robinsons at this point. Because Fero is FLO certified, fair trade premiums are paid to the farmers upon purchase. But the Robinsons go above and beyond that, paying higher than the asking price for coffee from Fero producers. In 2012, several years worth of premiums plus Sarah and Jonathan's compensation gave Fero enough money to install electricity throughout the co-op, dramatically improving the economic and social standards for the members. Later, we wander back to watch today's harvest be processed, and it's an impressive setup. The wet mill is perched at the top of a hillside, and everything happens down the slope, using gravity to push the fruit to compost, the hulled coffee through the washing channels, down, down, down to the raised beds, where they'll dry for 15-plus hours. WE'LL RETURN TO FERO on our fourth day so that Sarah, Jonathan, and Andrew can conduct interviews with 10 individual producers. All of these growers will be paid for their interview contribution, but they don't know that yet. The fee mustn't have any influence on the answers they will give Sarah and Jonathan about their livelihood, their struggles, their views on FLO. But the Robinsons insist that these co-op members must be compensated; otherwise, it's just another form of exploitation. Today we're up with the sun once again, this time to drive to the Oromia region to visit the Sukee Xoree Farmers' Association. The land is not certified; they have no interest in being certified. When we ask the leader of the group why, he says, "Where is Fairtrade when I need them," and Kyle pipes up, "I'm right here!" What ensues is a conversation in which he and DAY 3 to the producers. This year, the return on that premium came to about $6,000. The farm leaders decided to use the money to buy new mesh screens for the raised beds at the mill. While raised beds are common in East Africa because the terrain around mills tends to be too steep for patios (not to mention producers don't have access to or money for concrete to create a patio), they're gaining popularity in other parts of the world for their ability to perfectly circulate air all around the coffee as it dries. Previously, these raised beds were covered with a cheaper woven reeds which are susceptible to rot and mold; he couldn't afford the mesh. Now, with this gift, the beds are both sturdier and more effective. It's hard to imagine that this coffee could be even better, but with this change to the processing, it looks as though it will. The farm leader ushers our group to a canopy overlooking the lush and dramatic drying beds and landscape below. Sorters and pickers have gathered at a shy distance to watch us. Plate after plate of goat, rice, and soda bread are brought to us, and dusty bottles of Fanta Orange Soda, plus the local beer, St. George, are popped open in honor of the Robinsons. This is more, and better, food than most of these people eat in a given week. In fact, such a feast is likely an annual reward. But the producers are thrilled to treat Jonathan and Sarah—they feel a kinship that is as close as family with the Robinsons at this point. When it's time for us to begin the eight-hour drive back to the Aregash Lodge, our friendly farm host wants to escort us in the truck he borrowed for the day; he worries our drivers will get lost on the ramshackle roads that comprise the bulk of the journey. When Sarah hears this, she can't keep her tears from falling. She is so touched. www.baristamagazine.com 59