Barista Magazine

AUG-SEP 2013

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STOP THE LABEL MISCONCEPTION MADNESS .$-"*/& #:"--*6t*--6453"5*0/#:-&4 I LOVE CERTIFICATIONS. THERE, I SAID IT. I know it might not be the most popular announcement to make, especially to readers of this publication, and I already can hear the snickers and muttering disapproval as I write this article. But I stand by my statement because I've spent almost my entire career in specialty coffee working with and on behalf of certified producers around the world, first as a roaster-retailer, and now as an importer. It's not because I think that certifications are the be-all and end-all. Rather, I sincerely believe that they have served as a vehicle to bring some amazing coffees to the specialty market, in addition to making a positive difference in the lives of countless people while promoting conservation and the protection of natural resources. These coffees often can stand on their own in the cup and match up with the best from their respective origins—but without the certifications many of them might remain undiscovered. Some probably would disappear into the black hole of the commercial market. While there are some significant differences among them, the various certifications often get lumped together because they highlight the conditions—socioeconomic, environmental, or both—under which coffees are produced, rather than how the coffees actually taste. Some of the larger certifications also have made volume a priority in order to maximize impact and market share, and by doing so they sometimes are dismissed by quality-minded roasters and retailers as being incompatible with their business models and target audiences. I feel that several myths have evolved that inaccurately portray certifications as being outdated and irrelevant to that sector of the industry, but before I attempt to dispel some of them it's worth quickly reviewing the various certification schemes. Organic: Launched in 2000 by the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA), the National Organic Program (NOP) is the regulatory framework for organic food products in the United States. The NOP maintains strict guidelines regarding labeling and the use of the word organic, and as such all handlers, processors, and manufacturers must be inspected and certified by agencies accredited by the USDA. Fair Trade: At its most basic level, Fair Trade is a market-based system in which minimum prices are set for commodities produced in developing countries and sold in developed nations. Small-scale farmers who are organized in cooperatives apply for and can receive certification if they meet the established standards. Until relatively recently the Fair Trade market in the United States fell entirely under the auspices of global certifying body Fairtrade International (FLO), an international body based in Germany that was represented in the United States by Transfair USA. In 2011 Transfair decided to leave the FLO network while continuing to honor the certification of cooperatives by FLO-CERT, a for-profit company that spun off from FLO in 2004. As part of its newfound independence the newly rechristened Fair Trade USA launched a certification called Fair Trade For All, for which larger estates and unorganized small-scale producers as well as formal cooperatives can qualify. Roasters who sign up either with Fair Trade USA or FLO (which now operates in the United States as Fairtrade America) commit to paying licensing fees on a per-pound basis as well as filing quarterly reports of purchases and sales. Rainforest Alliance: A large nongovernmental organization headquartered in New York City, Rainforest Alliance (RFA) focuses on global conservation while developing and implementing strategies for sustainable livelihoods. RFA certifies a variety of agricultural products but also promotes forestry, tourism, and environmental education. The certification is based on farm management with a focus on environmental criteria, and producers of all sizes can apply. All actors in the supply chain must register for chain-of-custody certification which requires reporting of purchases and sales, as well as an annual audit. www.baristamagazine.com 49

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