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RWANDA the origin of this defect that blights otherwise amazing coffees. Susie Spindler, director of ACE, says that COE is in a unique position to help pinpoint geographical data that can be used to see if there is any regional specificity indicating localized issues, potentially bringing about or exacerbating this defect. This is especially poignant in light of the fact that neighboring Burundi is suffering from the same defect issues. But you can smell it in the air. Driving through city and country, the potato odor will often waft into the window, the same smell we found in the cups, which sadly obliterated any good qualities in that coffee. I don't want to paint too bleak of a picture, but I do want to be factual in relating the important issues Rwanda (and Burundi) face now and into the future. Identifying and controlling this defect is crucial for gaining the trust of buyers, who are becoming more wary of potato, which can pop up apparently from even a single defected seed. Farming and washing station practices are being reviewed, as are genetic variance possibilities. Considering more than 98 percent of the coffee grown in Rwanda is of the Bourbon variety, this will be a real challenge to agronomists. Meanwhile, did I tell you how amazing the coffees are? Coffee profiles range from sparkling lime and juicy tropical fruit acidity, supported by honey and cane sugar sweetness; to clean, refined cups of sweet plum and red apple with lush caramel and chocolate mouthfeel. They are truly spectacular. The jury is aligned on the one coffee that earns the Presidential Award, which is given to a 40 barista magazine Group photo of the author with the international judges panel for the 2013 Rwanda Cup of Excellence, joined by the national cuppers and coordinators, along with COE head judge Sherri Johns. coffee scoring over 90. The three-hour drive from Kigali to the Huye District for the award ceremony is worth it for the chance to visit this lush mountain-ringed area. We're once again treated to traditional drumming, singing and dancing, and speeches by dignitaries from all over Rwanda. Many of the speakers talk of the necessity of supporting farmers in an effort to improve the quality as well as quantity of coffee grown, and to do so in a way that allows the farmers to continue to live well while doing so. The black cloud of potato defect isn't ignored in these speeches, but the focus is on what can be done to manage and fix the problem. The Rwandan people are resilient and delightful. As we travel through the country on a bus full of mguzu (white people), we were an obvious spectacle. But in an instant, with a smile or wave, their look of curiosity turns to glee, and they grin and wave back happily. What an amazing sight, and one we saw over and over from these warm and friendly folks. This seems a perfect corollary to our experiences cupping: discovering coffees that opened up and smiled at us, and in turn make us smile when describing them, just short of jumping up and down, like the kids who would flock to the road, waving as we drive by.