Barista Magazine

BAM_DEC 2013 -JAN 2014

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INDONESIA are still commonly practiced at the death of a family member. These funerals can go on for days. Many of the traditions have changed over the centuries, but this ritual is still very essential to Torajans. One of the most striking features of the area besides the landscape and its people is the unique architecture and homes. Homes are called Tongkonan, and they also serve as storage areas for the Toranjans' beloved rice. These Tongkonans rise up in a curved fashion with elaborate woodcarvings and symbols. Sacred animals like buffalo and roosters are heralded in icons, which are featured prominently in the compositions. The level of symmetry in the designs is impressive. The heritage and tradition of wood carving is actively being preserved in a nearby cultural site where wood craftsmen restore an area known for funeral effigies. These cultural villages are not just known as tourist sites, but are active and still central points of day-to-day life. My last visit to Toraja was in 2007, so I was excited to finally make it back. I was to meet two different coffee groups in and around the city of Rantepao. The area is split into the northern regions, such as the famous Sapan and Minanga, and other districts, including 38 barista magazine A beautiful few handfuls of cherry at Blang Tampu Village, Bener Meriah, Aceh Sumatra. Pango Pango, which are composed primarily of newly planted areas. Each district is slightly different in its approach to coffee production. What has been key with specific groups—and what is unlike most of Sumatra—is the production of fully-washed coffees versus the traditional wet-hulled or "semiwashed" processes. Java and Sulawesi have been more known for not only fully-washed coffees but also distinction in their varieties. Catimor has had more traction because of leaf rust over the decades in western Indonesia, while S795 is a variety that has been given great credit for the distinct cup profile that is found in Torajaland. This was of particular interest to me in terms of cup quality. The excellent altitude, wet processing, and varietal integrity align here to make what can be some of the world's best-tasting coffee. With only three days of farm visits, and trips to collection sites around Parangian, Minganga, and Pango Pango, it was a bit of a rushed visit due the sheer expanse of Tana Toraja. I was able to cup some of the earliest collections of this season. Early indication

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