Barista Magazine

APR-MAR 2014

Serving People Serving Coffee Since 2005

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Page 37 of 107

and went on to win the country's Best in Panama competition that year. Different farmers have different drying methods for their top-of-the-line Geisha. Some dry the coffee on patios while others rake it over African raised drying beds. Many producers, including the Petersons, share the delicate technique of finishing off the drying process—once coffees have reached a humidity level in the low teens— with mechanical drying machines in an effort to achieve an unusual level of uni- formity: exactly 12 percent humidity. This gives an incredibly clear and clean taste profile in the cup. It was a total delight spending time on the farm with Rachel and Daniel. They are both deeply passionate about what they do. When asked what she likes to do with her spare time, Rachel replied cheerfully that she goes out on the farm to look at the trees and pull weeds—just generally watch over the family's coffee. Our next stop was on the other side of the Baru Volcano. We drove to Finca Santa Teresa and met with José Raul, who has managed the farm for six years and has been instrumental in making the transition from the former owners to Toby's Estate when it changed hands. It was still early in the harvest and we were lucky enough to be able to be part of the first cupping of the new harvest. I e-mailed owner Toby Smith to tease him about how he missed this great occasion. In 2013, the Geishas from Finca Santa Teresa placed third in the category of Geisha natural, fourth in Geisha honey, and sixth in Geisha washed in the Best of Panama competition, so I knew we were in for a treat. José Raul prepared the cupping while his son played hide-and-seek with Oskar, and I bombarded José with processing questions. It was truly an amazing cupping. I excitedly called up my old high-school Spanish skills and told him, "my palate burned with happi- ness." Not sure I was entirely clear. A few days later, we were treated to a special visit I had been eagerly anticipating: Joseph Brodsky and Ninety Plus Gesha Estate (NPGE). I first spoke to Joseph four years ago when he was just beginning the NPGE adventure. At the time, I was looking to buy coffee for Drop Coffee Roasters in Stockholm, and he told me about an amazing opportunity he had recently come across: making his dreams of owning his own coffee Oskar and Alexander spent a day picking perfectly ripe cherry with Benjamin (pictured) at Ninety Plus. This coffee is what Alexander intends to use at the 2014 Swedish Barista Championship. 38 barista magazine B o o k 1 - 5 4 . i n d d 3 8 Book 1-54.indd 38 3 / 2 4 / 1 4 7 : 1 1 A M 3/24/14 7:11 AM

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