Barista Magazine

AUG-SEP 2015

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42 barista magazine off guard during a dry spell in August and September. This season, though, I began a steady organic copper fungicide regimen as soon as the young, tender green coffee cherry plumped up in June. In July 2014, wild pigs—the darling mascot of our company, Big Is- land Coffee Roasters—became a real problem for the first time. Several broke through the perimeter fence and turned over masses of lava rock earth in search of worms, mostly around the shaded, soft roots of the coffee trees. Pigs have always had a presence on our farm, generally go- ing for fallen fruit and our vegetable garden, which we have well-fenced now. I didn't hesitate taking care of them this year, as the destructive consequences were too great. By January of 2015, I'd stopped four dead in their tracks, three of which were soon stored in the freezer and ap- propriated for delicious slow-cooker meals that fed me throughout the season. Some features of farm life just make me plain giddy. Eliminate a nuisance and get free food in the process? #Winning. Some aspects of farming aren't so awesome. Though important, humbling lessons of humanity's miniscule finitude, natural disasters can bring imminent destruction. All you can do is brace, hope, and take it as it comes. Such was the case when PXΫXΫľΫĿ crater, a mere 11 miles away and uphill from our farm, began gushing lava on June 27, 2014. Then, on August 7, Hurricane Iselle hit the Big Island. It luckily had reduced to a moderate tropical storm when it made landfall. Then more still: On October 15, threats of Hurricane Ana came and went as the storm barely missed Hawaii to the south. Truth be told, I feel more grateful to have gone through the experience than anything else. We, and the coffee, made it with only a few minor losses, which is far, far better than most in Puna and elsewhere on the Big Island. FOUR YEARS TO FRUITION The harvest season began the first week of September and continued smoothly, unfolding with teleological succession until the end. The trees were so heavy with coffee that the field looked pregnant. The fungi was under control. Infrastructure was expanded and improved, ready for daily abuse. The weather was sunny and warm, perfect for The author sorts through the day's harvest, removing any overripe and underripe coffee cherry. This is just one of many necessary steps in quality control. (Photo by Kelleigh Stewart) PHOTO BY KELLEIGH STEWART

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