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FLAVORS T e variety SL-28 that is found in much of Kenya is certainly a huge part of why Kenyan coff ee tastes the way that it does. However, in tests of other coff ees that were not SL-28, but that mimicked the Kenyan processing techniques, fl avors reminiscent of Kenyan coff ee started to appear in milder forms. Again speaking only from my experience, and with another shout-out to Aida Batlle's tests of her coff ees in El Salvador, for two years in a row I and others tasted Kenyan processed Finca Mauritania and Finca Kilimanjaro side by side with their traditionally processed counterparts. In both years, the Kenya process had much more pronounced dark fruit tones, a hint of a savory character, a more tart acidity, juicy body, and a cleaner, slightly more savory aſt ertaste. We also work with a farm that did similar processing of diff erent lots in Guatemala and found very similar results. Clearly, due to the long fermentation times, some of the fruit and sugars are penetrating the parchments and seeping into the coff ee the post fermentation soaking that is thought to change fl avors well, create a very unique fruity-yet-savory fl avor defi ne and accentuate that DOUBLE FERMENTATION (UNIQUE DRY & WET)—BURUNDI PROCESS When thinking about double fermentation, fi rst I think of Kenya, and then I think of Burundi. T e Burundi process, while still a double fermentation and similar to Kenya, has a twist. In this style of double fermentation, the coff ee is pulped and fermented dry for 12 to18 hours. T en the coff ee is sent to a secondary tank directly below the fi rst tank and fermented again for another 12 to 18 hours. In the second tank though, water is added, making the second fermentation an underwater fermentation. Aſt er the secondary wet fermentation, the coff ee is washed and sent to a third tank for a post fermentation soak of 12 to 24 hours. Today this is not the popular technique being promoted around Burundi, but it was the traditional way things were done there up until a few years ago. Today many washing stations have moved to fermentation and processing that is very similar to what is being done in Rwanda, with a shorter dry fermentation and a post fermentation soak. ECO-PULPERS (NO FERMENTATION) PROCESS T e use of eco-pulpers is certainly the fastest growing segment of processing techniques for a few obvious reasons: aff ordability, reduced labor and facility requirements, and of course, less water use. All of this equals simplistic production and good environmental benefi ts. T e two most famous brands of eco-pulpers today are Penagos and Pinalense. Both machines have slight diff erences, but in the end create a similar product. In the process, the coff ee is pulped and then sent through a channel where eventually it is pushed upward into a cage-like pipe with vibrating and turning rods that, depending on the calibration, can remove little to essentially all of the mucilage simply based on a little water and friction. Once out of the de-mucilaging section, depending on the calibration, the coff ee is ready for drying—no fermentation required. Many coff ee professionals have all sorts of opinions on the quality of coff ee from an eco-pulper, but without a doubt great coff ees have been processed www.baristamagazine.com 45 the fl avors already inherent in Kenyan coff ee. itself. T is combined with as I believe helps SUMMARY Fermentation dry for 12 to 18 hours; fermentation wet for 12 to 18 hours. Washing, and then 12 to 24 hours post fermentation to soak. EXCEPTIONS As I said, many washing stations have moved to single fermentation in Burundi, and the popularity of eco-pulpers around the world will likely change the landscape in the next few years, as well. Outside Burundi though I have yet to see any other broad regions use this technique. FLAVORS I have had the good fortune of tasting coff ee done from one washing station using both styles of fermentation and have seen a consistent trend among washing stations that use one style or the other. For me, double fermentation tends to lend slightly more fruited notes (dark fruits in particular) and also more savory notes. T e body usually feels heavier and the acidity is juicier but also round. T at being said, in particular with Burundi in my experience, single fermentation highlights lighter tones better. T e acidity is crisper, and some of the lighter fruit tones are more transparent, making it almost impossible to decide on a preference. On top of that, considering the water and labor savings, it's easy to see why single fermentation is being recommended today.