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FIELD REPORT GUATEMALA & EL SALVADOR TOKYO SCAA, PORTLAND, OREGON TOKYO BY SARAH ALLEN The fact that we had been on an airplane for nine hours was only part of the reason I was disoriented upon landing in Narita in Tokyo; I was puzzled by the quiet, and the emptiness of the spotless airport, and later, by the similarly vacant roads on the 45-minute drive from the airport to downtown. In the days following, that same "where is everybody?" feeling would take over, and I didn't understand it for a full 24 hours. This being the world's most populous metropolitan area, with upwards of 35 million people, Tokyo didn't annoy me with traffic jams, or masses of people pushing down the sidewalk, through the subways, crossing the street. The level of efficiency was so lofty that life just unfolded, granted at a hyper-drive pace, but without blaring car horns, aggressive pedestrians, or really any urban angst that I could discern. This made me fall in love with the city—so tidy, so disciplined—and also feel, as an individual, isolated. I adored the competence built into every building, every train and station, every architectural detail, and seemingly every person's psyche. But there was a lack of individualism on the surface that made me immediately aware of my position as an outsider. Luckily, I was visiting Tokyo under the wing of espresso machine company Unic, and the local coffee company, Key Coffee, which were working in tandem to host the first ever Barista Nation Tokyo on May 10, and my traveling companions and I, could not have been made to feel more welcome and taken care of. After a brief stop in our hotel rooms to refresh, we were off to the first of what would be nightly visits to some of the city's best restaurants. On this night, we walked along elevated footpaths hundreds of feet above the roads, down through the subway station and back up again, crisscrossing tiny roads behind brilliantly lit boulevards, up several flights of stairs, took our shoes off, sat down on tatami, and caught a breath. Our hosts from Unic's Tokyo office, Clément Groisne, along with Mr. Kaneko, poured us some of the best sake I've had in my life, and we tucked in for a lengthy feast of tempura vegetables, kebobs of lamb, beef, chicken, and kidneys, sashimi so fresh it seemed to be dripping saltwater, and my all-time favorite, unagi, served in thick fillets with a salty broth on the side. At the end, we clutched our stomachs as we made for the door, and our hostess, in traditional dress, bowed deeply to us as she pressed hand sewn sachets encased in exquisite silk in our hands as we left. Barista Nation creator and organizer Anastasia Chovan, celebrated barista trainer and former Italian Cup Tasting Champion Sauro Dall'Aglio, and I slept off our jet lag in the comfort of the Park Hotel Tokyo, and met for breakfast the next morning. We had the better part of the day to explore the city before we would meet Clément and Mr. Kaneko at Key Coffee's headquarters for a final check on preparations for the big Barista Nation event the following day. Anastasia and I toddled after Sauro toward the subway station, following our fearless leader as he held up his iPad and followed an electronic map. Every so often, he would stop to ask directions, and it was always amazingly easy to find someone not only willing to help, but who likely would lead us all the way to our next juncture, be it the train platform, or a staircase. We were headed for the Shibuya neighborhood to meet with my old 30 barista magazine friend, Hiroshi Sawada, who owns Streamer Coffee, a popular Western- style coffee company with two cafés and a roastery in Tokyo. I've known Hiroshi for years, since he was a mainstay of the Coffee Fest Latte Art Championships, until he and his wife had a baby and his business took off. Hiroshi has enjoyed great success in his business, largely due to his instinctive style, which blends beautifully with the fashion-centric nature of the Shibuya area. Hiroshi and his baristas poured us some amazing drinks, each topped with a latte art design that outdid the one before. Then he graciously offered to take us around to a few other cafés, and we happily accepted. The four of us crowded into a taxi and made our way through the city. Hours later, we bid our courteous guide and wonderful friend, Hiroshi, farewell, and headed into Key Coffee's offices, where we were met with the extremely capable and considerate team of Barista Nation Tokyo organizers. The entire top floor of Key Coffee's impressive multi-story offices had been set aside as a workshop and lecture area, big enough to accommodate the 50-plus guests expected for the event, while still small enough to afford the intimate and interactive space Barista Nation events worldwide have become known for. Mr. Kawamata and Mr. Ijima, the primary organizers, were on top of every last detail, from the areas where Anastasia and I would lead lectures on café marketing and retailing success, and where Sauro would deliver workshops on the topics of café bar layout and espresso basics. We met the effusive Mr. Nakano, who would host the event, and the gracious Mr. Shibata, President of Key Coffee, who welcomed us warmly. Satisfied that the event was prepared to perfection, we left for Unic's offices and headquarters in Tokyo for a welcome party with some of the sponsors and friends of Key Coffee and Unic. In the bright, well-kept and impressive space, Unic Tokyo's barista trainer, Mr. Nakajima delighted us with latte art and etchings, working side by side with Sauro on the Stella de Caffe machine in the center of the training room. Soon, the space was filled with revelers, and long, joyous toasts were made in our honor, as well to celebrate the first ever Barista Nation Tokyo. All were in top spirits when we left and headed home, eager for good night's rest before the big day ahead. Up early, I sat in my room's window seat 33 floors above street level, watching the sun stretch across the vast cityscape as the day dawned warm and clear. Truly we were treated to magnificent weather throughout our stay, and this day was one of the best. Clément and Mr. Kaneko led us by foot through the city to Key Coffee's offices, and though they walked typically fast for Tokyo, I had enough time to note again how orderly the traffic moved, both people and cars, and the amazing lack of any trash, even the tiniest thing like a cigarette butt or gum wrapper, on every inch of ground we covered. Upon arriving to Key Coffee's top floor for the event, we were herded to seats set up at the front of the room in a sort of grade-school class photo arrangement, and we had our pictures snapped with the smiling, organized Key Coffee team. Barista attendees began arriving promptly at nine, helping themselves to pastries and coffee, and mingling and introducing themselves. At precisely 9:30, Mr. Nakano called for attention and got the day started, explaining to