Barista Magazine

APR-MAY 2017

Serving People Serving Coffee Since 2005

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57 www.baristamagazine.com 100-percent sustainable coffee by 2027. Most of the conversation cen- tered around how the Federation is working with the Colombian gov- ernment to offer opportunities to the rebels who are close to signing a peace agreement. This agreement will include support for farming coffee in areas where coffee has not been traditionally farmed. This is rebel territory, which could open up a new coffee zone. I was fortunate to cup some coffee from this target area. While primitive, it showed great promise. After, we cupped coffee from six regions with Nestor Perilla, who heads up quality control for the Federation. Every cup on the table was top-notch, but we all agreed the Huila and Nariño were the most exceptional. Before heading home, Arnoldo and I had a chance to visit some specialty cafés in Bogotá—I was blown away! Café Devoción, which is in the modern Hilton Hotel, featured cold-brew Oji Japanese Drippers and a selection of Geshas and other exotic Colombi- an-grown coffees, any of which could be brewed by whatever method a customer requested. The next two cafés we visited were stylish and offered exceptional hand-poured coffees. The smaller one, Libertario Coffee, is actually owned by a coffee farmer who has been experimenting with differ- ent varieties. At Bourbon Coffee Roasters, we both had delicious cups brewed through a dripper with water dispensed by a Marco Über Boiler. The last café we visited though was the most impressive. Owner Jaime Duque worked for the FNC in their quality-control department for many years. He also was the Colombian representative for the Coffee Quality Institute, on whose board my father served. His café is called Catación Publica, or Public Cupping, and the name speaks for itself. Behind the sparkling Synesso machine, the café walls are lined with signage extolling the health benefi ts of coffee. We spent time in Jaime's small roastery, where he hand tracks all of his roasts to document small shifts in taste variations. Jaime offers coffees from 16 different microregions, with the goal of roasting coffee from every microregion in between Colombia's three cordilleras (mountain ranges). He's at about one-fi fth of the way to his goal right now, and proud to be offering a newer region on the scene, Meta, which he feels could become exceptional. This is the same area the FNC hopes to engage rebels to allow coffee farming. We talked coffee over several hand-poured tastings. Jaime and I bonded over the challenges in hospitality/foodservice when trying to convince clients to upgrade their quality. He told me about a fantastic restaurateur who visited him earlier that day whose wine by-the- glass list averages $18 per glass. However, the restaurateur didn't understand why he needed to pay slightly more to get a much better specialty coffee versus the low-grade stuff he was currently buying. Anyone who has worked in hospitality has had those kinds of expe- riences, but if anyone is going to convince the customer to rethink restaurant coffee, it's Jaime. I spent my long fl ights home refl ecting on the experiences, images, and conversations I had on this return to Colombia. By the time my plane touched down in San Francisco, three things stood out in my mind: Colombia is a country blossoming into its true vibrant, amazing self with an impressive café culture helping to lead the way. The quality of coffee I cupped at every stop was exceptional. The impressive consistency, especially out of Huila, was a marvel. I couldn't wait to get back to Peerless headquarters to share what I'd learned with the team.

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