Barista Magazine

AUG-SEP 2018

Serving People Serving Coffee Since 2005

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Publisher Kenneth R. Olson Editor in Chief Sarah Allen Art Director Demitri Fregosi Powers Online Editor Ashley Rodriguez Copy Editors Erin Meister, Chris Ryan Photographer George Maharis Business Manager Cheryl Lueder Advertising Sales Sarah Allen 800.296.9108 Contributors Tracy Allen Kaie Bird Chris Danger Jess Dunkin Kate Haberer Lance Hedrick Jason "Double J" Johnson Michelle Johnson Alex Lambert Jonathan Levy Ana Mallozzi Phil Markel Erin Meister Ashley Rodriguez Chris Ryan Marcin Rzońca Editorial Advisory Board Nora Burkey, The Chain Collaborative Anna Gutierrez, Barista 22 Hidenori Izaki, Samurai Coffee Experience Heather Kelley, Stumptown Coffee Roasters Sam Low, Da Lin Todd Mackey, Bolt Coffee Co. Mike Marquard, Blueprint Coffee Noah Namowicz, Cafe Imports Lorenzo Perkins, Fleet Coffee Sarah Richmond, Equator Coffees + Teas Craig Simon, Think Tank Coffee Jess Steffy, Square One Coffee Teresa von Fuchs, Bellwether Coffee Laila Willbur, Stumptown Coffee Roasters Barista Magazine 4345 NE 72nd Ave. Portland, OR 97218 phone: 800.296.9108 fax: 971.223.3659 email: info@baristamagazine.com www.baristamagazine.com Barista Magazine is published bimonthly by Ollen Media, LLC. Subscriptions are $30 in the United States, $45 USD in Canada, and $60 USD for the rest of the world. The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without written permission from the publisher. Postmaster please send address corrections to: Barista Magazine, 4345 NE 72nd Ave., Portland, OR 97218. ISSN: 1944-3544 Copyright 2018 Barista Magazine. All rights reserved. BARIST A M A G A Z I N E E D I T O R L E T T E R I AM PROUD TO BE A MEMBER of the specialty-coffee community because we are, as a group, known for being open-minded, generous of spirit, and innovative. Further, in recent years, there has been a movement internationally to demand inclusivity, to recognize the challenges of intersectionality, and to attack systemic sexism and racism from within, and the specialty-coffee community has endorsed and engaged with this movement. I wasn't surprised that Agnieszka Rojeweska won the World Barista Championship—she's a total badass—but it was staggering to our whole community that a woman fi nally won. Even at a moment when all of us are contemplating the spectrum on which gender and gender identity exist, it's still fair to say that systemic sexism has plagued the coffee industry. Agnieszka didn't win because she is a woman; she won because she dominated the competition. However, the fact that a woman hadn't won before now has systemic roots. The defi nition of "systemic" is that it's larger than just you or I. To be clear: I am focusing here solely on systemic sexism in the coffee industry. To also be clear, I and all of us at Barista Magazine continue to celebrate the victories and contributions of the WBC champions who have come before. Systemic –isms are results of history. They are the products of behavioral patterns among social groups that have evolved over centuries. If you can accept that there is sexism, you accept that it is systemic because of historic discrimination. Now you can see why it's been so diffi cult to not only challenge, but even to identify. The glass ceiling—a term that originated in an article in The Wall Street Journal in the 1980s—is an analogy for a well-documented form of insti- tutionalized discrimination against women and other marginalized groups. It identifi es invisible barriers in professional contexts that interfere with their ability to achieve the highest status within their respective professions. People are reluctant to change the status quo because it is often part of their own identity—for example, gender roles we were brought up with. This systemic sexism is what the term "patriarchy" refers to, which is a system that places power in the control of men. The gendering of the terms "feminism" and "patriarchy" can make it challeng- ing to understand that in the context of gender discrimination in the current sociopolitical system, both men and women are sexist. When Agnieszka won the WBC on June 23, she certainly broke a glass ceiling, and we at Barista Magazine got right to work planning the cover and feature article about her for this issue you're hold- ing now. Because we had just profi led Agnieszka in the October + November 2017 issue (you can read it for free either at www.baristamagazine.com, or via our app), I decided to use some of the allocated space in this issue for quotes from women in coffee who have been piloting the effort to combat our industry's systemic sexism for decades, as well as leaders from a new generation of coffee women who are at the frontlines of ushering our communi- ty into a markedly more inclusive future. You can see the compilation of these incredible voices on page 80. More than a few of them said things like, "It's awesome she's female, but female or not, she wiped the fl oor with the other fi nalists," and "Agnieszka is the WBC champion. She is not the best female WBC champion—she is the WBC champion, no matter her gender." Friends, I agree with you. There are myriad reasons why Agnieszka becoming the WBC champion is something to celebrate: She's the fi rst woman to win, but also, she's proved herself to be the best kind of role model and leader over her many years of running a café, developing skill sets, training others, and of course, competing in maybe more championships than any other barista. She has volunteered on the board of the Barista Guild of Europe, as well as at compe- titions and coffee events around the world for years. More than that, she is compassionate and instinctive. She is very much in charge of her own power and strength, yet she is transparent and approachable. Agnieszka is a champion for many reasons, yes, but she will go down in history for being the fi rst woman World Barista Champion. We've still got so much work to do, folks, and it goes far beyond the barista competition stage. Women café owners facing customers who challenge their authority; women roast- ers second-guessed on the job because of their gender; women coffee professionals of all areas of expertise who have to prove themselves and their ideas worthy in ways their male counterparts do not—these are battles that all of us, Agnieszka included, are fi ghting together. While I dream of the day the crusade is behind us, I could not be more proud to stand shoulder to shoulder with the kind of formidable, spirited, brilliant, and in- spiring women for which our international coffee community is known. See you on the fi eld. ending systemic sexism in coffee 14 barista magazine

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