Barista Magazine

DEC 2018 - JAN 2019

Serving People Serving Coffee Since 2005

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59 excited to help. The company started as a kiosk in a nearby department store but grew out of its britches and now partners with a local roaster for custom beans and blends, including a lovely Tanzanian fi lter coffee and an El Salvadoran espresso we sipped on at a cozy table. The Salvadoran 'spro was described as having notes of licorice, which is also pretty classically Danish: The Danes have a particular passion for licorice, and it's common to fi nd lico- rice-fl avored just-about-anything at every turn. (Thankfully, that particular taste is one I defi nitely prefer in a shot: warm, spicy, bittersweet, and complex.) Finishing up the coffees, I pulled out the map again and stared intently at it for a while. "Oh, look!" I said, clearly surprised. "There's another place close by here that is supposed to have great hand-brews…" FORLOREN ESPRESSO "Forloren Espresso is a Coffee Shop – not a Cafe," reads the de- scription on its website, and it's hard to argue with such a declara- tive—and obviously true—statement. This place is really about the coffee, above all else—though if you're not a coffee drinker there are certainly things here to please your palate regardless. There are even one or two baked goodies on offer, but otherwise this is a serious coffee person's caf—er, we mean coffee shop. Owner Niels H. S. Nielsen studied the Japanese culture of kissaten while living in Tokyo in the early aughts, and the infl u- ence of that meticulous, obsessive focus on quality and coffee is evident in every corner and practically every detail of this lovely, elegant little spot. He opened Forloren in 2014, and despite its relatively young age the shop runs as though there have been grooves worked into the fl oor from decades of exacting, repeated, consistent movement. Watching Niels make coffees behind the bar is a mesmerizing experience, like sneaking glances at some- one performing an underwater ballet or a quiet spiritual practice. Which is also to say: There's no need to rush here, coffee this good takes time—and it's worth it. We ordered a hand-brew of a Has Bean coffee from the U.K., and a lovely cappuccino with a gorgeous six-tier tulip on top, and sat for another moment poring over (and taking notes from) a guidebook called The 500 Hidden Secrets of Copenhagen, noting proudly that the very shop we were sitting in was prominently mentioned. DAY 3: DEMOCRATIC COFFEE When in a constitutional monarchy with representative democracy, why not seek out a coffee shop with a political name housed in one of the most, well, democratic places imaginable? That's right: a public library, one located in the old city center and in an area of town that appeals to (and attracts) folks of all types, from coffee geeks like me to local shopkeepers and style hunters, college students, tourists, even those visiting the Great Synagogue of Copenhagen across the street (though it closed in November for renovations). Now, obviously the brilliant thing about democracy is that it gives people the right to choose, but if you walk into Democratic Coffee and choose not to have one of their ridiculous house-baked croissants, I don't think you're exercising your rights properly. (Just kidding: As a vegan I had no choice but to pass on everything but the heavenly smell of that thing.) The otherwise no-frills shop original content for the coffee community EVERY SINGLE DAY. online

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