Barista Magazine

FEB-MAR 2019

Serving People Serving Coffee Since 2005

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Publisher Kenneth R. Olson Editor in Chief Sarah Allen Art Director Demitri Fregosi Powers Online Editor Ashley Rodriguez Copy Editors Ever Meister, Chris Ryan Photographer Susie Myerson Business Manager Cheryl Lueder Advertising Sales Sarah Allen 800.296.9108 Contributors Valorie Clark Ashley Elander Strandquist Jason "Double J" Johnson RJ Joseph Alex Lambert Phil Markel Ever Meister Sam Miller Andy Reiland Ashley Rodriguez Chris Ryan Kyna Uwaeme Mark Van Streefkerk Editorial Advisory Board Nora Burkey, The Chain Collaborative Anna Gutierrez, Barista 22 Hidenori Izaki, Samurai Coffee Experience Heather Kelley, Stumptown Coffee Roasters Sam Low, Da Lin Todd Mackey, Bolt Coffee Co. Mike Marquard, Blueprint Coffee Noah Namowicz, Cafe Imports Lorenzo Perkins, Fleet Coffee Sarah Richmond, Equator Coffees + Teas Craig Simon, Think Tank Coffee Jess Steffy, Square One Coffee Teresa von Fuchs, Bellwether Coffee Laila Willbur, Stumptown Coffee Roasters Barista Magazine 4345 NE 72nd Ave. Portland, OR 97218 phone: 800.296.9108 fax: 971.223.3659 email: info@baristamagazine.com www.baristamagazine.com Barista Magazine is published bimonthly by Ollen Media, LLC. Subscriptions are $30 in the United States, $45 USD in Canada, and $60 USD for the rest of the world. The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without written permission from the publisher. Postmaster please send address corrections to: Barista Magazine, 4345 NE 72nd Ave., Portland, OR 97218. ISSN: 1944-3544 Copyright 2019 Barista Magazine. All rights reserved. BARIST A M A G A Z I N E E D I T O R L E T T E R WHAT SEEMS LIKE a million years ago, I was sipping beer in a Portland, Ore., pub with one of the coolest guys in coffee. It was 2006, and we were chat- ting about the fact that my very fi rst trip to source— to Guatemala with my friends from Sustainable Har- vest—would coincide with a buying trip for his small specialty roasting company. We were planning a hangout in Antigua, and I was trying to glean some insider intel about how to conduct myself politely and respectfully in an unknown land. I sought him out with these questions specifi cally because I appreciated his ability to remain true to himself while being deeply respectful to his hosts in coffee countries, who, he told me, almost always hail from wildly different back- grounds than his own. They tended to be profoundly religious, he told me, and he's agnostic. They were often conservative in appearance and comportment, and he laughed as he noted the tattoos covering most of his body. This was the part that really stuck with me: He said that in getting inked, he makes sure to keep the skin on his hands and extending several inches up from his wrists unaltered. "The last thing I want to do is have a producer focus on my tattoos instead of our conversation about the coffee," he told me. "It's unnecessary. And I don't want to inadvertently offend him." So on origin trips, my friend left the Slayer T-shirts at home and wore long sleeves for his pro- ducer meetings instead. Like I said, it seems like that was a million years ago. A lot has changed in the way coffee producers and roasters communicate. Back in 2006, that guy was one of the only roasters taking trips to Central and South America and East Africa to visit the people growing his coffee in the fi rst place, and today it seems more coffee professionals than not have vis- ited origin at least once. Producers have seen it all at this point, and most don't bat an eye when a roaster shows up with tattoos on their hands and necks. Tat- too sleeves these days are, to cite one of my favorite comedians, Natasha Leggero, adorable—cute even! (If you want to shock someone, she says, it's all about face tattoos these days.) Still, the crux of the conversation remains the same. It's like if you're visiting your girlfriend's parents for the fi rst time: Do you show up in your Cardi B half-shirt? Do you swear at the dinner table? Probably not. Does this mean you're selling out? Not in the least. When longtime Barista Mag contributor (and frequent origin traveler for her work as managing editor at Cafe Imports) Ever Meister pitched a story that would discuss proper etiquette when visiting cof- fee-producing countries, I was thrilled. If there's one generalization I can make about our readers, it's that they want to be the best coffee professionals they can be, and do their part in ensuring a more transparent, quality-focused future for specialty coffee. Oh, one more generalization: They tend to be unapologetic in- dividuals with strong opinions and courageous voices (as well as, c'mon now, fi ercely fashion-forward). Should you show your tattoos when visiting a producer partner in Ethiopia? If you want to, sure. Just pair them with a clean shirt, not a trendily ripped and stained T. Wear those A.P.C. Jeans if you want, but maybe don't ask your host if you can put them in her family's freezer overnight. Common sense, folks. Of course, being an awesome guest when you're visiting producing countries is hardly just about appearances, which is why we're excited for you to read all the learned tips and suggestions from Ever and the expert travelers she interviews in her story on page 60. And because no story can possibly cover absolutely all the info, we invite you to share what we may have missed. We'll pass it on to readers in the "Tipjar" section of a future issue. Many of you may be dreaming of a visit to origin while watching snow and rain fall as winter soldiers on, which is part of the reason for our beefy section on health in this issue. Three talented writers and one badass illustrator came together to cover some of the most pertinent health issues facing coffee pros in a retail setting: the importance of paid sick leave; understanding allergies for both you and your customers; and that dastardly condition plaguing so many baristas, carpal tunnel syndrome. This section appears on page 70, and we hope it's a help to you. There's a lot more happening in this issue of Barista Mag, much of it centered around our far-reaching coffee community and your activities and efforts to make it stronger all the time. If you're a regular reader, you're familiar with my habit of harping about the importance of building our grassroots community, so you won't be surprised that we chose to feature Washington, D.C.–based barista Adam JacksonBey on the cover and in a feature article (page 54). From his own backyard to the larger East Coast coffee scene to the national and international level he's reached volunteering on behalf of his barista comrades with the Specialty Coffee Association and the Barista Guild, Adam is committed to the positive and inclusive development of our industry. We hope you enjoy the candid and personal story of Adam's coffee history as told by his good friend Valorie Clark. Heck, don't just enjoy it—be inspired by it! We sure were. the best we can be 14 barista magazine

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