Barista Magazine

FEB-MAR 2019

Serving People Serving Coffee Since 2005

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can delve deep and explore a rotating selection of single-origin coffees brewed to order. Another of Wisconsin's early pioneers also calling Milwaukee home is Anodyne Coffee, which opened its doors in 1999, and roasts out of its Walker's Point location. This spot also hosts a spacious and expansive bar that calls to mind a craft brewery (so it's no wonder they also serve beer and wine). Along with a bustling wholesale presence and four retailers, Anodyne also hosts live shows at their cafés—when I checked the hours of the Walker's Point location, the Friday schedule included a caveat: 6:30 a.m. to 8 p.m.—or later, if there's a show. The other Anodyne locations are also stunning. A visit to the Milwaukee Public Market Anodyne means you can sample food from loads of vendors while sipping on a latte. Moving its roasting works to Walker's Point from Bay View meant that Anodyne could do more with the Bay View space: Now it slings wood-fi red pizza to hungry, caffeinated patrons. Milwaukee might be the nexus of Wisconsin coffee, but the specialty scene only gets more interesting outside of the state's biggest city. Drive to Viroqua, a town of under 5,000, and you'll fi nd Kickapoo Coffee, one of the most respected specialty roasters in the nation. Kickapoo was started by Caleb Nicholes and TJ Semanchin, who wanted to focus on quality and ethically sourced coffees. The company has evolved over the years: In 2015, Kickapoo could boast being the state's fi rst solar-pow- ered roaster, and in 2017, the company committed to paying at least $2.75 per pound of green coffee. In choosing the company name, Caleb and TJ pay homage to the Kickapoo River Valley, which takes its name from the Kickapoo Nation, made up of four separate groups: The Kick- apoo Tribe in Kansas, the Kickapoo Tribe of Oklahoma, the Kickapoo Traditional Tribe of Texas, and the Mexican Kickapoo. You have to travel to an even smaller town to fi nd another of the state's most well-known and respected specialty roasters. Ruby Coffee Roasters resides in Nelsonville, which has a population of fewer than 200 people, and was founded by former Intelligentsia roaster Jared Linzmeier, who named the company after his grandmother. You can fi nd Ruby Coffee on coffeehouse shelves across the nation, but the best way to enjoy it is to stop by Nelsonville and try the coffee with the team. The staff can usually be found in the tasting room, which is open on Saturdays and Sundays, and sells retail coffee to the commu- nity along with brewing gear, merch, and artisanal goodies from local purveyors. On a snowy day, the barn—painted bright red with the Ruby logo on the side—is a sight just as warming as the cup of coffee you're holding. The pleasure of drinking coffee in Wisconsin is small towns and picturesque landscapes. Discourse Coffee calls Sister Bay, a village in the popular vacation spot Door County, home, and offers amazing coffees to the area's fewer-than 1,000 residents. Door County is known as the "Cape Cod of the Midwest," and attracts vacationers from across the nation for its lighthouses, fi sh boils, and beautiful views of Green Bay to the left and Lake Michigan to the right. Discourse calls itself a "liquid workshop," and combines elements of the avant-garde food world. The company has hosted "omakase" coffee tasting menus, serving signature drinks in elaborate vessels, with the aim of telling a story with each drink creation. In Wisconsin, it's easy to find a coffee shop close to a lake. Travel just a few hours north of Door County and you'll find Seth's, a mainstay in Little Chute. Little Chute sits on top of Lake Win- nebago, and if you're in a hurry, you can hop over the Fox River and grab a coffee and a pastry at Seth's Drive Thru in neighboring Appleton. Seth's has been open for almost a decade, and launched 39 www.baristamagazine.com

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