Barista Magazine

APR-MAY 2019

Serving People Serving Coffee Since 2005

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Coffee Brewing Control Chart, which was developed and released by E.E. Lockhart through the Coffee Brewing Institute in the 1950s. While the chart has been a kind of talisman for coffee profession- als looking to land the "golden cup," the UC Davis researchers found it to be an imperfect tool, just itching to be improved upon. They discussed their experiments and the scientific process they followed, as well as broke down some of the more head-spinning mathematical equations involved in calculating a coffee's EP (ex- traction percentage) compared with its TDS (total dissolved solids, or the strength concentration in the final beverage). While they are in the process of developing a new version of the old control chart, the results are yet to be revealed—which means you might want to be the first to get your pass to next year's Sensory Summit, to get the inside scoop! Friday's fi nal session was also one of the most fun and "wow"-inspiring of the program for me personally: "Multisensory Flavor Perception in Specialty Coffee," presented by Fabiana Carvalho, a post-doc at the Univer- sity of São Paulo, Brazil. Fabiana's area of focus has been how humans process fl avor when infl uenced by outside or external effects that are not directly related to the senses required for tasting (gustatory, olfactory, somatosensory)—such as, how does what you see or hear impact how you taste and perceive fl avor? Fabiana explained that studies show certain colors, tones, textures, and even ambient temperatures can drastically change the way a person engages with what they're eating or drinking. She walked us through several areas of her specifi c research and then had us do an experiment of our own: First we tasted the same coffee while listening to two different tones through headphones, and then we tasted the same coffee while feeling something rough, a strip of sandpaper. Even knowing that the coffees were the same, a signifi cant number of us in the theater honestly reported that we experienced different characteristics highlighted in each cup—bitterness with the lower-toned sounds, sweetness with the higher notes, and so on. It was, in a word, wild; I actually brought a version of the exercise back home to my work family, and even though we are all trained and calibrated sensory professionals, our results refl ected the same trends! If you're interested in Fabiana's work, you can follow her @thecoffeesensorium on Instagram. After a full day of all that, it was time to rest and put our tastebuds aside for a little while … (just kidding, then we had dinner and drinks). We were collectively amped on more than just caffeine, and ready to see what the next day would bring. SATURDAY, JANUARY 26 Just when we thought it couldn't get better, Saturday happened. The fi rst session of the day was presented by Thomas Koziorowski from Probat, on "The Infl uence of Roasting Dynamics and Profi le on Sensory and Chemical Characteristics of Coffee." The roasters in the room perked up the moment a roast curve and the term "rate of rise" appeared, as Thomas walked us through experiments engineered by Probat to analyze the effects of some of the variables that are con- trolled (or not controlled) in the roasting machine during the process of transformation. He illustrated the Probat technicians' development of three different roast curves that kept two signifi cant variables con- stant: They all took the same amount of time, and they all produced coffee that was the same color by Agtron or spectrometer—what was adjusted were charge temp, drum speed, and airfl ow in order to meet the same end target. How did the curves affect the fl avor? We tasted the results and were astounded by the modulation in acidity, sweet- ness, and body that was achieved through the various roast cycles. 43 www.baristamagazine.com

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