Barista Magazine

JUN-JUL 2019

Serving People Serving Coffee Since 2005

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Page 13 of 103

Publisher Kenneth R. Olson Editor in Chief Sarah Allen Art Director Demitri Fregosi Powers Copy Editors Ever Meister, Chris Ryan Photographer Miles Morales Business Manager Cheryl Lueder Advertising Sales Sarah Allen 800.296.9108 Contributors Victoria Brown Kate Haberer Paige Hicks RJ Joseph GiBong Kim Ana Mallozzi Ever Meister Michael Mergenthaler Emily Orendorff Ashley Rodriguez Chris Ryan Jordan Sanchez Josh Taves Mark Van Streefkerk Joshua Vasko Editorial Advisory Board 2019–2021 Alicia Adams; Red Bay Coffee, Oakland, Calif. Cassie Ash; Small Planes Coffee, Washington, D.C. Brittney Balestra; Cavegirl Coffeehouse, Longmont, Colo. Kaie Bird; Sharing Spaces, Tel Aviv, Israel Kate Blackman; Messenger Coffee, Kansas City, Mo. Gabriel Boscana; Maquina Coffee Roasters, West Chester, Pa. Brittany Davies; Discovery Coffee, Vancouver, Canda Erica Escalante; The Arrow Coffeehouse, Portland, Ore. T. Ben Fischer; Glitter Cat Barista, New York, N.Y. Cill Fisher; Floozy Coffee Roasters, Newcastle, Australia Antoine Franklin; Blacksmith Coffee, Houston, Texas Umeko Motoyoshi; Umeshiso, San Francisco, Calif. Leticia Pollock; Panther Coffee, Miami, Fla. Abner Roldán; Café Comunion, San Juan, Puerto Rico Christina Snyder; Deeper Roots Coffee, Cincinnati, Ohio Barista Magazine 4345 NE 72nd Ave. Portland, OR 97218 phone: 800.296.9108 fax: 971.223.3659 email: Barista Magazine is published bimonthly by Ollen Media, LLC. Subscriptions are $30 in the United States, $45 USD in Canada, and $60 USD for the rest of the world. The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without written permission from the publisher. Postmaster please send address corrections to: Barista Magazine, 4345 NE 72nd Ave., Portland, OR 97218. ISSN: 1944-3544 Copyright 2019 Barista Magazine. All rights reserved. BARIST A M A G A Z I N E E D I T O R L E T T E R YEARS AGO, A FRIEND from my university days moved to Busan, South Korea, to scout for Korean baseball teams. He and I had worked to- gether on our college news- paper, and though he didn't know much about coffee, he pitched me a story about the growing café scene in South Korea. Walking to work in the mornings, he would pass an old man roasting coffee in a tin pan on an open fi re just inside his garage. This was 2007, when instant cof- fee was king in South Korea, so my friend, Aaron, was excited to tell me about the few—very few—funky cof- fee spots he was discovering. One of his favorites was called Noh's Roasting Shop, which was tucked away in the bustling university district. Groups of young South Koreans packed the place to attend nightly brew classes taught by the owner, Noh Byung-hoon. "I'm talking close to 50 people in the space of a small two-bedroom apartment," Aaron told me. "Welcome to Busan." In my travels, I've not had a chance to visit Busan yet, but I've spent a fair amount of time in the capital city of Seoul, and it's become one of my favorite cities for its otherworldly temples and gardens, its K-pop culture, its prominence in the modern art world, its radically frontline tech, and of course, its eating and drinking ethos of all things exciting and delicious. Joo Yeon Jeon's World Barista Championship win in April was a good excuse to catch up with Aaron and learn a little more about what daily life in Busan was like. Did he remember MOMOS, where Joo Yeon works? MOMOS opened in 2007, two years after Aaron moved to Busan. "I'll never forget the level of service—people were used to getting coffee from vending machines, so you wouldn't expect great service in a café. But MO- MOS was legit." Though neither would remember it, Joo Yeon could have been Aaron's barista. She was there from the start. Her tenure of 12 years reminds me of something Aaron told me about Noh's: how Noh had been on the hunt for a roasting appren- tice for years, but hadn't found quite the right one yet. "In South Korea, the relationship between teacher and student is vertical, not horizontal," Byung-hoon told Aaron for his article, which ap- peared in the April + May 2007 issue of Barista Magazine. "It must be a very strong relationship so that over time, slowly, the student can absorb the teachings." Joo Yeon went to the mat in barista competitions for six years before she won a national title, and for 10 years before winning the WBC. To her, it's perfectly reasonable that it took so long; in South Korea, diligence and patience are key to success. Joo Yeon is a joy, both to watch in competition and to interview for a magazine article. She has mastered an ideal balance of hard work and joie de vivre—she talks about it in this issue's cover story on page 62. I think sometimes in the United States we move too fast—we get impatient for something big to happen, for change to unfold right away. This isn't the barista's fault—it's United States of America culture. It's perpetuated by a belief that the faster you go, the faster you'll reach your goal. In my opinion, that's a formula for burnout. Yes, we can personally practice the slow-and- steady method like Joo Yeon, but we're not going to change the culture of our community. That's why I'm amped to feature a personal essay by Emily Orendorff on page 83 about the very real ramifi cations of barista burnout and how to deal with it. This was the focus of the United States Barista Championship routine that earned Emily sixth place in 2019. Emily's story begins under the assumption that we all have experienced burnout; sharing her story, including the highs and lows of overcoming it, makes for a profound read I'm proud to have in our pages. Her essay is the companion piece to a larger article written by RJ Joseph called "Take Care: Battling Barista Burnout" on page 78. RJ tackles the physical toll all baristas experience, but puts a keen focus on the mental distress that retail work can cause, as well. Like Emily, RJ doesn't claim to have a perfect solution, but rather argues the need to understand how taxing this work can be, become cognizant of those factors, and develop tools for addressing them. Joo Yeon can relate. "My fi rst WBC was with endless tension. At that time, I wanted to show everything I have because [I didn't know] if I [would] have another chance. That made so much [of a] burden for me. I didn't enjoy preparing for WBC at all," she told me. "This year was different. I have changed my mind. I didn't care about others' attention, but [rather] focused on what I can do now. This mindset made me more comfortable and [able to] enjoy prepara- tion everyday." Joo Yeon credits learning how to manage stress with much of her success. She is a fi ghter—she says you have to be. "Do not give up" was what she said when I asked what her advice would be for other baristas—whether they compete on the world stage or work the platform of a daily café. lessons from south korea 14 barista magazine

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