Barista Magazine

JUN-JUL 2019

Serving People Serving Coffee Since 2005

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minutes before happening upon New Harvest. Behind the retail counter, the area opens up into a spacious room filled with piles of coffee sacks, a large red Deidrich roaster, and, farther back, a teaching and cupping space. Part of the reason New Harvest is so beloved by both the local, as well as national, coffee community is Rik and Gerra's many years run- ning what lots of young coffee professionals considered the most inno- vative and exciting coffee event of its time, MANE. That commitment to community extends to Rik's buying practices: "I think that the idea that [New Harvest was] founded on is that building a coffee commu- nity helps everyone in the supply chain," he says. "For us, it's about working with the same farmers year in and year out, and sometimes those farmers don't have a great year. That's just the nature of coffee, and we feel that it's important to present the value [of our relationship with them, whether or not it's a good year], which is why we're in it for the long haul with the farmers." Of all the coffees they roast, Rik loves the Honduras Los Portillos best, both because of its consistent quality and the fact that New Harvest has been buying the producer's entire crop for 12 seasons. C O F F E E + S P I R I T S Consider this an expansion of the New Harvest entry, as Rik and his wife, Paula, own Coffee + Spirits as well. Located in the historic arcade downtown, New Harvest Coffee + Spirits offers a full coffee menu as well as a stocked liquor bar—with an emphasis on special whiskies—ans a curated menu of signature cocktails that include coffee, such as the delicious Stay-at-Home Dad (aka the bourbon latte), which combines bourbon, espresso, steamed milk, brown sugar, and cinnamon. PA S T I C H E I felt at ease as soon as I walked into Pastiche, a café nestled inside an old home in Providence's Federal Hill neighborhood. The warmth and the smell of coffee in the air, combined with the cozy tables, friendly staff, and dim lighting, relaxed me before I'd even found a table. Since 1983, Pastiche has served coffee and desserts, and that age-old combination has made it an iconic and long-lasting player in the Providence coffee scene. On weekends and evenings, lines for Pastiche's delectable desserts stretch out the door with as much as a 30-minute wait. Pastiche is a unique contender in this report because its focus is mainly desserts, not coffee. Despite that, however, Pastiche's coffee is top-notch. General Manager Amy Foster tells me that all Pastiche employees complete a rigorous training program with its wholesale provider, New Harvest. New employees are trained intensely for two weeks before assuming full responsibilities, which Amy says sets them apart from many other cafés that give only a few hours or days to training before setting new baristas behind the bar. "We're probably three generations in," says Brandt Heckert, co- founder with his wife, Eileen Collins. "There were people who brought their small children in 30 years ago, and now those kids are grown and have their own kids who come in." C O F F E E E X C H A N G E The Fishbein family was selling cooking supplies long before they sold coffee. As the restaurant-supply business waned, Charlie and his brother, Bill, opened a small coffee shop on Wickenden Street in the Fox Point neighborhood of Providence. Coffee Exchange's roaster Ben Gaul tells me that for many years, Coffee Exchange was the only non- chain coffee shop in Providence. Being a relative newcomer to the city, I never had the chance to see the original space, but the new space is as welcoming and cozy as can be imagined. When you fi rst step into the café, which is lodged in a house across the street from the original location, it's like stepping into a log cabin. All soft wood and warm tones, with muted browns and the occasional splash of color, the café is Though New Harvest Coff ee's roasting digs are in neighboring Pawtucket, the alcoholic off shoot of the company, New Harvest Coff ee + Spirits, is located in the center of downtown Providence in the Arcade, which, having been built in 1828, is the oldest indoor mall in the United States. You can wander through the Arcade to get there in the daytime for coff ee, but at night, you'll go from a side entrance directly into the bar for such favorites as the one barista Shelby Lambert is cra ing in this photo, the Stay-at-Home Dad (a bourbon and brown sugar la e), or an Irish coff ee made with your choice of countless whiskies on off er. 40 barista magazine

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