Barista Magazine

JUN-JUL 2019

Serving People Serving Coffee Since 2005

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Page 41 of 103

42 barista magazine designed to soothe frayed nerves and provide comfort. Coffee Exchange's sourcing program sets it apart from other cafés in the area, and the story extends back into the stuff of coffee legend: In 1991, a man named Bill Harris approached Bill Fishbein with the idea to create a cooperative that would purchase only Fair Trade organic–cer- tifi ed coffee. Not only was Bill Fishbein on board, but he used it as an opportunity to start the renowned nonprofi t Coffee Kids. Coffee Exchange, meanwhile, continues sourcing most of its coffee from that initial cooperative to this day. The buying power of the 25+-member cooperative gives Coffee Exchange the funds to send people to visit origin countries and talk to producers about more effective and lucrative growing and processing techniques, Ben says. He adds that while many third-wave roasters seek out high-quality microlots that benefi t mainly a single producer, Coffee Exchange seeks out community lots that, while they might not be as high-quality as a microlot, benefi t an entire community of people. "It's a question of what's great for the community as opposed to what's great for that individual roaster," he says. B O R E A L I S Owner/roaster Brian Dwiggins grew up steeped in good craft coffee, even though he lived in a small town in Alaska with few resources. "Alaska is very geographically isolated," he explains. "All the bigger chains couldn't really get a good fi t there. So I grew up drinking locally roasted small-batch coffee." He didn't realize his good fortune until he left for college and tasted what his school friends were drinking: "I started realizing just how bad most other coffees were." Later, while working as a contract fi lmmaker, Brian picked up home roasting as a hobby. "I'd be on set on the streets of Boston, with my little kettle and hand grinder, grinding coffee to do pourovers and French presses for me and my coworkers." Friends in the craft-service depart- ment of the fi lms loved it and asked if they could purchase coffee from Brian. "It planted a seed for me to start thinking more and more about it," he says. In September 2016, Brian opened Borealis in an old train depot that sits beside a bike path. Especially in the summer months, iced coffees are extraordinarily popular. Borealis goes through 20 gallons of cold brew and 10 gallons of nitro cold brew most days of the summer. The shop offers three kinds of iced coffees: cold brew, nitro cold brew, and flash brewed. "The specialty side of me likes the flash-brewed iced coffee," he says. Often a lighter roast with more complex flavors, flash-brewed coffees let the natural acidity and brightness shine through. Most consumers of traditional cold brew enjoy the method because it doesn't em- phasize acidity. Those on the fence when visiting Borealis can try all three with an iced-cof- fee flight. I concluded my whirlwind café-tour week at InterAmerican's Providence offi ce. In the lab, where Tupperwares fi lled-to-bursting with different green-coffee samples sit organized by ori- gin and certifi cation, I stood beside one of the traders as she brewed a small carafe of a Brazil- ian coffee roasted by a customer. The sun lightened the horizon as the rest of the team trickled in, having smelled the brew from their desks. It felt like my fi eld tour had come full circle as I sipped a beautiful coffee while surrounded by green samples destined to be roasted by some of the very companies I visited. Providence has plenty of great cafés that we didn't have space to write about! We highly recommend the following spots: Small Point: A welcoming café serving Equal Exchange in downtown Providence. Bolt: Their locations at the Dean Hotel and the RISD Museum are artfully designed spaces. Bolt began roasting their own coff ee in 2018. Dave's: A roaster-café with one downtown location and a roastery in Narraganse . Known for creating a new brand of coff ee-milk syrup. Nitro Cart: This company fueled Providence's nitro cold-brew obsession, beginning as nitro coff ee carts throughout the city and opening its fi rst brick-and-mortar store last year. Seven Stars: With everything made from scratch using authentic techniques, Seven Stars takes the cake—uh, bread—as one of Providence's top bakeries. Seven Stars uses coff ee from George Howell. Puremade Syrups & Sauces have nothing artificial so you can mix up something amazing. Make it with Puremade For more visit 1 oz. Puremade Raspberry Syrup 1 oz. Lemonade Real Fruit Smoothie Mix 8 oz. sparkling water Sparkling Raspberry Lemonade Combine the syrup, smoothie mix, sparkling water and ice. Stir then serve.

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