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has become one of the most popular and utilized coffees in the world. There are only a handful of roasteries that I know of throughout the coffee-buying world that prefer to not lean heavily on the laurels of what we know to be "Lintong" or "Mandheling" or organic, certified "Aceh Gayo." Sumatran coffee is a vast world unto itself, full of a range of coffee qualities, grades, and flavor profiles. This visit was eye-opening. I saw groups working on variety separation, regency distinct lots, and different methods of fermentation. The parchment market throughout Sumatra is still very active, but I noticed a couple of different groups who are trying, with success, to develop direct-cherry purchasing. This direct payout to growers allows for faster processing and minimizes potentially fruity cups because of same-day fermentation. Wet hulling will always be a staple, but I cupped numerous lots that had been traditionally fermented and dried under canopy on cement patios without the use of tarps. All this new innovation is beginning to change the overall profile of what Sumatra can be, and it's something I find really exciting for the future of Indonesian coffee. Most of my time was spent in the northern Aceh region of Takengon, where much of our single-origin coffees hail from. It is a sleepy coffee community with a smidge of tourism around Lake Tawar. An earthquake this past July hurt the Bener Meriah regency: Forty-two people died, more than 4,000 homes were damaged, and many buildings collapsed. When I was there, some roads were still covered with major boulders from ensuing landslides. The community has had an influx of humanitarian organizations trying to provide assistance. Damage was evidenced by major cracks in the walls of rooms at Hotel Banda. Another section of the hotel was destroyed and much of the city is still recovering from the 6.1 magnitude earthquake. Despite all the adversity, Aceh feels like it is at a turning point, and that coffee is a catalyst for a re-emerging industry. Since the 2004 peace accord which led to the Aceh separatists laying down arms, following the brutal earthquake and tsunami that same year, this region has had a rebirth, and now has an amazing chance to be a leader in volume and quality, and redefine what coffee from this northern zone of Indonesia can be. Coinciding with my visit, the Asia-Pacific Economic Cooperation (APEC) Summit 2013 was hosted by Indonesia in Bali and made headlines every day. Financial communities around the world are heavily vested toward building a stronger Indonesia. Indonesia is the world's largest palm oil producer, and the industry's impact on the country has had devastating results. Despite the damage done to the unique ecosystems of the islands, the palm oil industry fuels much of this part of the world's economic development. Palm oil exports in 2012 accounted for $21.6 billion in revenue, while coffee brought in $1.5 billion. Though coffee is a minor economic player by comparison, its footprint is far less damaging and, I believe, its transparency is far superior. The traditional way of life in Indonesia is most certainly in flux, but coffee represents the past, and perhaps a hope for the future. www.baristamagazine.com 43