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S O U T H K O R E A WHEN WE WERE PLANNING the party to take place at the Pancake Epidemic—perhaps the café on the highest level in terms of both style and quality among Seoul, South Korea's seemingly infinite number of cool coffeehouses—we argued about whether or not to have a latte art throwdown. Some in our group—the party was planned and hosted by Stumptown Coffee, La Marzocco Korea, the Pancake Epidemic, and Barista Magazine—said they were flat-out sick of them. "Can't we ever do something different than latte art competitions?" someone moaned. So we decided to include a brew-off for the Korean baristas who would attend. Still, I insisted we have a latte art throwdown. Here's why: While there is perhaps no other city in the world opening coffeehouses and roasteries faster than Seoul (more than 10,000 last year alone), there is incongruously a total lack of a coffee and barista community. It's the nature of Korean culture, Tony Lee of the Pancake Epidemic told me. He asked that Barista Magazine send out the party invitations; if they came from a café, he said, baristas from other companies likely wouldn't come. I'm the first to admit that latte art throwdowns aren't serious forums for barista excellence, and that's exactly why I persevered in including one on our party schedule: Baristas come together over latte art. They take risks and laugh and show off and have fun. They are purposely not serious, and that's why they're a perfect party game for a young coffee society like Seoul's: Everyone relaxed, fooled around, and, most importantly, participated. Just like that, the Seoul barista community was born. As the third most-populous city in the world—with 22,500,000 peo- ple and counting—Seoul is expanding in almost every way, including in coffee and café culture. Driving through the city takes forever, no matter where you're going, but at least you can note some of the awe- some café names as you go: Coffee Prison; Good Morning Vietnam; Thanks, Nature Café; and Williamsburg Coffee—where the baristas wear beanies, glasses, flannel shirts, and suspenders—are just a few of the memorable ones from this trip. The best way to get around is the subway, which is—as you would imagine considering the technical and engineering prowess for which South Korea is known—efficient, easy to use, and well-ordered. And way faster than driving. This was the second time I attended the Seoul International Café Show—now in its 13 th year—and the World Coffee Leaders Forum Opposite page, at top: Seoul, South Korea café, the Pancake Epidemic, hosted a lae art throwdown and party in conjunction with the Café Show and World Coffee Le aders Forum in Seoul in late November. The throwdown was the first of its kind in the city, and was sponsored by La Marzocco Korea, Stumptown Coffee, and Barista Magazine. Below: On a café crawl through the city, we saw everything from mega four-story coffeehouses with flashing neon signs; a cat café and even a sheep café; traditional, quiet coffeehouses; and third-wave cafés using the latest gear and offering coffee from roasters in the United States and Scandinavia. This page: Reigning World Brewers Cup Champion Stefanos Domatiotis of Greece carried the 2014 World Barista Champion, Hidenori Izaki of Japan, on his shoulder aer the two gamely participated in the lae art throwdown at the Pancake Epidemic. Stefanos and Hidenori's participation and approachability at the throwdown went a long way in proving the merit of a tight-knit barista community to the Korean baristas in aendance. 29 www.baristamagazine.com