Serving People Serving Coffee Since 2005
Issue link: http://baristamagazine.epubxp.com/i/659497
CASE STUDY: ATA AND DOI PANGKHON On December 18, we were up at 6 a.m. to make the drive to my friend Ata's and his mother's farm, about an hour's drive southwest from Chiang Rai, in order to watch the sunrise over his coffee farm. "Doi Pangkhon was introduced to us by a café owner in Chiang Rai, who was buying from Ata because he felt it was the best coffee in the area," Miguel reflected. "He introduced us to the growers there, and, based on both the cup results and what we saw at the farms and mills, it seemed the right place to start focusing. After shipping our first container this year, we have asked some of the growers to try some varietal separation along with changes to fermentation to see if either would result in some cup differences." Ata is just under 30 years old and represents a new breed of farmer in the north, and most likely the world. Each farm on Doi Pangkhon is about 12 acres in size, and 17 farming families contributed to Allegro's first year of purchasing in this particular mountain (Doi) area. This year, we are working with more farms. In total, the mountain has about 300 families from three villages that all farm their own coffee, who generally also help their neighboring Akha farmers to pick and get their coffee to Beanspire in order to export to us. Ata showed us plants that had come from seeds that the king had personally handed out in the mid-1980s, as well as other Bourbon trees that were up to 50 years old. Previously, the farm was exclusively committed to opium production, until his grandfather started planting Typica and Bourbon trees. In our first year, we have seen an interest and intrigue from customers, and we will begin selling to over 20 Whole Foods Market stores in Colorado, New Mexico, and Kansas, as well as producing at our own microroastery we opened last November in Denver. What we found at Ata's farm was pretty amazing. A great attention to detail, good altitudes averaging 1,400–1,500 meters, good processing practices, and the ability to separate various varieties (Abbysinia, Java, Bourbon, Typica, and Caturra, as well as Catimor). What amazed me was the generation of farmers made up of primarily younger kids who have moved back from the bustle of Bangkok to help their parents farm and deliver coffee to a whole new audience of appreciative coffee lovers, mainly through internal consumption. With such a robust tourist industry visiting Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai's sophisticated growing third-wave coffee shops and roasters, there continues to be a bright future. For the first time in my coffee career, I met with rural coffee growers who drank their own coffee that they roasted, and who could make an espresso drink, to boot. That is a rare thing, and it shows in the cup. I think we are witnessing the beginnings of an international market that is interested in seeing better coffees from Thailand's Arabica farmers. "Success would be a large, willing market to purchase varietal separations and specialty-prepared coffees at a price that would make it worthwhile for the growers and everyone in the supply chain," says Miguel. "Varietal separation may not make sense for all growers. Certainly for lower-elevation areas, the gains to be made in the cup, and the risks on non-rust-resistant strains wouldn't likely be worth the trouble. From what we have seen, in many areas above 1,200–1,300 meters above sea level, rust can be managed with good maintenance even with Typica and Bourbon. Many of the regions that have had coffee established for 30-plus years still have a good amount of these cultivars at high altitudes that could be separated. If there is a willing market, plantings of these varieties expanded." A FAMILY TRADITION THAT'S BEEN BREWING FOR OVER 140 YEARS F rom our beginnings as a small custom roaster, we've grown over four generations into a business that still values family and cofee. And we're honored to ofer the kind of there-any-time-you-need-us service, equipment, support, expertise and advice our partners have come to expect. Call us for information and samples at 1 (800) 428-4627 CHECKOUTTONSOFPHOTOSOF BARISTASANDCAFÉSFROMAROUND THEWORLDANDSENDUSPHOTOSAND NEWSFROMYOUROWNCAFÉ! FINDOUTABOUTCOFFEE EVENTSINYOURAREANEW CAFEOPENINGSANDINDUSTRY UPDATESONOURFACEBOOK TWITTERANDINSTAGRAM! follow us on Facebook at Barista magazine follow us on twitter! @BARISTAMAGAZINE follow us on Instagram @baristamagazine 49 www.baristamagazine.com