Barista Magazine

AUG-SEP 2012

Barista Magazine is your home for the worldwide community of coffee and the people who make it.

Issue link: http://baristamagazine.epubxp.com/i/76474

Contents of this Issue

Navigation

Page 76 of 83

At most cupping tables, there are few words that reverberate with as much impact and consequence as defect. Not only is the word abrasive, its connotations are those of disappointment and disapproval. As such, it is no surprise that conversations regarding defect counts and other physical characteristics of coffee are often sensitive and well-contained in order to protect their details from being misconstrued and misunderstood. The bottom line is that all coffees can contain De-fect (noun) – a shortcoming, faults or imperfection – lack or want, especially of something essential to perfection or completeness; defi ciency defects rooted in a variety of agricultural, mechanical and human origins. It is ultimately how thoroughly these imperfections have been avoided and/or separated and removed in harvesting, processing and shipping that make standout coffees, well, stand out. In this article, I will outline the major reasons for grading green coffee that are relevant to the trade, as well as how to use the necessary tools for green coffee evaluation. More than ever before, passionate baristas worldwide More than ever before, passionate baristas worldwide are compelling consumers to see coffees as unique and individual. are compelling consumers to see coffees as unique and individual. It is this truth, that not all coffees are created equal, that the specialty coffee industry hinges on. A coffee's components are not precisely machined and assembled on a production line so that each bean is exactly the same. It is an organic agricultural product, subject to shifts in climate, natural disasters, and pests. Furthermore, it is shipped in large containers, held in warehouses, and often subject to shifts in temperature and humidity. Specialty coffees are special because of separation and differentiation—that is, through sorting or 'cleaning'—and through standout attributes in the cup. Green coffee grading is a skill that can measure the degree to which a coffee has been sorted during processing. Cupping not only screens coffees for cup defects, but provides tasters the opportunity to evaluate positive attributes inherent to the coffee apart from the influence of roast or method of preparation. Green coffee grading and cupping are used as methods of guarding a buyer's investments. Using bean size and defect count, buyers and sellers can draw random samples of the same (350 gram) size and find similar results in the physical makeup of the coffee. Thus buyers can ensure that they are getting what they asked for. Even more, when a buyer pays for a more thorough cleaning and sorting of the coffee, they can ensure by green grading that they have received the level of quality that they have paid a premium for. Also important to note is how vital the bean size, bulk density, moisture content, and defect count of any given green coffee are to how the coffee will behave during roasting. Having a firm grasp on these 'physicals' can guarantee a coffee's place in a roaster's offerings as well as ensure end customer satisfaction with the physical aspects of the whole bean roasted product. Add a well-developed palate, cupping lab and spoon to the mix, and the challenge of identifying and securing specialty coffees comes into clear focus! Regardless of where a company is aiming to land within the spectrum of good, very good, excellent, and outstanding cup quality, it is essential to use every data point to ensure that you have arrived in the intended position. Green coffee grading serves this exact purpose. Getting Started It is best to set yourself up well for green grading as it is a repetitive and detail-oriented task. If you are anything like me, your mind wanders easily, so taking extra steps to ensure the viability of your workspace will go a long way. I recommend a high-top table or counter much like those used for cupping coffees. Not having to bend over for long periods of time will save wear on your back and neck. Good lighting is key; full spectrum is the best. Using a classification aid like the one shown below will help in organizing any beans in question. The Specialty Coffee Association of America's (SCAA) Green Grading Mat, Arabica Green Coffee Defect Handbook, and Form are integral to accurate evaluation and logging of results. Be certain to have and use these always! Once you are comfortable in your workspace, jump right in. I recommend first taking a moisture reading. All specialty grade green coffees should read 10–12% moisture upon import. Next, compare the color of the sample to the green coffee color gradient included on page one of the Handbook. Overall color can be affected by origin, country or age, and is important to note. Next, smell the sample. If need be, take a portion into your hands and breathe on it to release any odors. Specialty coffees should have no foreign

Articles in this issue

view archives of Barista Magazine - AUG-SEP 2012