Barista Magazine

DEC 2017-JAN 2018

Serving People Serving Coffee Since 2005

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Publisher Kenneth R. Olson Editor in Chief Sarah Allen Art Director Demitri Fregosi Powers Online Editor Ashley Rodriguez Copy Editors Erin Meister, Chris Ryan Photographer Kenny Funkhouser Business Manager Cheryl Lueder Advertising Sales Sarah Allen 800.296.9108 Contributors Tom Abraham Andrew Bettis Chris Danger Sarah Grant Brian W. Jones RJ Joseph Jordan Lee Stephanie McLean Erin Meister Khoa Nguyen Dang Maciej Ostrowski Ashley Rodriguez Chris Ryan Editorial Advisory Board Nora Burkey, The Chain Collaborative Anna Gutierrez, Barista 22 Hidenori Izaki, Samurai Coffee Experience Heather Kelley, Stumptown Coffee Roasters Sam Low, Da Lin Todd Mackey, Bolt Coffee Co. Mike Marquard, Blueprint Coffee Noah Namowicz, Cafe Imports Lorenzo Perkins, Fleet Coffee Sarah Richmond, Equator Coffees + Teas Craig Simon, Think Tank Coffee Jess Steffy, Square One Coffee Teresa von Fuchs, Genuine Origin Coffee Project Laila Willbur, Cherry Street Public House Barista Magazine 4345 NE 72nd Ave. Portland, OR 97218 phone: 800.296.9108 fax: 971.223.3659 email: info@baristamagazine.com www.baristamagazine.com Barista Magazine is published bimonthly by Ollen Media, LLC. Subscriptions are $30 in the United States, $45 USD in Canada, and $60 USD for the rest of the world. The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without written permission from the publisher. Postmaster please send address corrections to: Barista Magazine, 4345 NE 72nd Ave., Portland, OR 97218. ISSN: 1944-3544 Copyright 2018 Barista Magazine. All rights reserved. BARIST A M A G A Z I N E E D I T O R L E T T E R the gift of insight IN EARLY OCTOBER I went to southern France with some producers and roasters to learn how strains of yeast developed specifi cally for showcasing particular coffee characteristics can be used in fermentation. (More on this in a coming issue—it's super exciting stuff!) Just after arriving, I received an email from Meister—who is a regular contributor to Barista Mag, as well as one of our copy editors—about the story she was working on for the next issue, i.e., this one you're reading right now. It would be the last in a three-part series Meister conceptualized and pitched last summer, about how the act of sharing—be it physically, with roasting and retail space; abstractly through education, theory, and best practices; or fun- damentally at source, among producers, agrono- mists, and farm managers—the people with their hands literally in the thick of things—can fortify and empower everyone working in coffee. I'm a sucker for stories that inspire our read- ership to open up, to bond and communicate, in an effort to strengthen our community as a whole for the greater good of specialty coffee. Oh, and also because helping your neighbor—even if that neighbor is your competitor—is simply the right thing to do. So I said, "Go for it, Meister," and she did. Thus, this exceptional series, "Share + Share Alike," came together. (You can read parts one and two at the Barista Magazine ePub online, and be sure to check out the fi nal installment on page 92 of this issue.) Back to France: I tapped out an email re- sponse to Meister and headed to meet my group for dinner. Soon, we were strolling at sunset through the historic center of Toulouse, but the beauty of the scene was lost on at least a few of us: As producer Aida Batlle of El Salvador intently detailed her fi ndings experimenting with the yeasts at her wet mills, producer Rachel Peterson of Panama and coffee specialist Tim Hill of Durham, N.C., were peppering her with questions: What ratio of yeast to cherry? How many hours before agitation? How much agitation? And so forth. Aida answered question after question, and when she was stumped, she asked one of the experts guiding our yeast exploration, all of whom worked within a group called LalCa- fe GTM, which is dedicated to developing, producing, and marketing yeast strains for coffee processing. We all heard every question; everyone was privy to the answers. This academic expedition through yeast and its applications in coffee was put together for one purpose: to learn by engaging. Rachel, Aida, and Tim learned from LalCafe's microbiologists, and vice versa. The resulting solutions might just change coffee processing as we know it. Stay tuned. Between questions on that evening walk through Toulouse, I thought about Meister's story, and how interesting Barista Magazine readers would fi nd her reporting on producers and agronomic scholars who wholeheartedly un- derstood that for the industry to advance, those shrouds of secrecy that may have been in place for decades simply have to drop. One of Meister's interview subjects for this issue's article, Shauna Alexander Mohr, sustain- ability director for the green-coffee trader Vol- cafe, encapsulates the concept gracefully when she says, "I think there is a transformational potential in conversation." I can't begin to explain how important sharing is to us: It's why we feature different role mod- els from throughout the international communi- ty for our cover article subjects and our "Master Q+A" features. Not only do they have wild, varied, and meaty experience and knowledge to share, they're eager to impart it. Our annual "Best Bar Tools" feature, which appears on page 72 of this issue, features more than a dozen coffee pros all disclosing the coffee products and tools they couldn't live without. These intimate person-to-person recommenda- tions are what have made "Best Bar Tools" one of the most eagerly anticipated features we have in the magazine each year. That's because all of us want to learn from the people we respect—it makes perfect sense. Aida could have hidden some of her insights about yeast and fermentation from Rachel—as elite specialty-coffee producers, they are, after all, competitors. To what end, though? Thankfully, the most effective leaders in our beloved specialty-cof- fee industry understand that sharing knowledge and skills will create positive change for everyone, certainly greater than any one person or company could hope to gain on their own. 14 barista magazine

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