Barista Magazine

APR-MAY 2018

Serving People Serving Coffee Since 2005

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42 barista magazine started harvesting. Hearing this, I jump on the opportunity to add three small lots to Josuma's 2018 imports. DAY 5 — BETTADAKHAN ESTATE Both Kalledevarapura and my next stop, Bettadakhan Estate, are located in the Baba Budangiri mountains. These are the hills, outside Chikmagalur, where India's coffee cultivation reputedly began back in the 1500s. According to legend, a saint named Baba Budan smuggled seven raw coffee beans out of Yemen on his way back from the Hajj pilgrimage. Upon returning to India, he planted these seven seeds in the mountains that now bear his name. While coffee cultivation may have started on a tiny scale 500 years ago, my visits are to mid-sized plantations that range from 50 to 400 acres in size. These estates don't just grow and harvest coffee. They also have wet mills and a drying yard on site. Some even have their own curing works (the Indian term for a dry mill) and export licenses. While farms of this size lack the romance of the smallholder toiling to produce 30 bags, I appreciate having full traceability for every coffee I buy. At Bettadakhan, I spend the morning touring the estate with A. Sukumar, and the afternoon cupping beans from here and two related estates. Coffees on the table are a mix of what Josuma bought last year and some that we haven't purchased before. Two unusual beans pique my interest: an Ethiopian Agaro and a Yellow Caturra. Much as I did with Shankar at Kalledevarapura, I jump at the chance to secure a few bags. Unfortunately, I'm told a European roaster claimed them a few days earlier. We cupped the newest Kalledevarapura microlots at the family's Bangalore offi ce.

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