Barista Magazine

FEB-MAR 2015

Barista Magazine is your home for the worldwide community of coffee and the people who make it.

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GC: The biggest challenge right now in Central America and part of South America is the coffee-rust crisis. During the last two years, with a crop reduction in most countries of 40 percent on average, the impact in Central America has been a big problem for the specialty-coffee farmers. Eighty percent or more of the farmers are still producing the traditional varietals that are very susceptible to coffee rust. The problem has become even more critical because coffee requires a lot of hand labor for the harvesting, and in many countries, the [decrease in] coffee production [has greatly increased] unemployment. This has a direct impact on these communities' income. In some coun- tries like Panama and Costa Rica, the labor is becoming more difficult to recruit because [of more attractive] job opportunities in other sec- tors of the economy like construction in the cities. Migration from rural areas to cities or urban areas in Latin America is an increasing issue for many crops that requires a lot of labor, and coffee is one of them. Climate change, which is impacting all the different elements direct- ly connected to the plants, will bring a lot of new challenges to the farming areas. [We need] focused research to develop mid- and short- term solutions for coffee production with more emphasis on the special- ty-coffee farms or varietals. More investment on coffee research has to be done with practical and easy-to-implement policies and alternatives, and maybe the specialty-coffee farms and farmers have to change their farming models to more technology and intensive management. We need to validate irrigation in coffee, new processing techniques, pruning systems, exotic varietals, direct export, and other options for the small farmers all around the world to pursue. I think the future of the specialty-coffee farmer will be based in shifting their minds to produce more quality beans for a better price. The direct relation between the farmers and their clients or roasters is a nonstop phenomenon that will keep growing as an essential part of the marketing model to be used by the specialty roasters worldwide. Also, looking for new rootstock and varietals that have not been eval- uated for the specialty market could be a good opportunity to follow the experience already lived by the wine industry in the last 20 years. The most mystic and complicated coffee origin with the most beautiful cul- ture around the coffee tree, leaves, fruits, and roast beans is in Ethiopia, and also the future of Coffea arabica is in their remaining coffee forest. KRO: How much of an education in coffee producing do baristas and café owners need to have? GC: It's very important to have the experience to see, to touch a coffee tree, to taste the ripe and unripe coffee fruits, to learn about sugar levels, picking time, color or ripening, and then [to also learn about] the people who do this work, the pickers, for they are the main quality factor in the whole chain. Also, [it's important to] experience all the different processing techniques and why and how we do it in different countries. It's a key element connected to the taste of the final cup of coffee. [There are] so many small details that could bring enormous changes in the taste and aroma of the roasted coffee. My respect for baristas is clear and loud. You guys are the present and future of the industry. You guys have a huge responsibility, and congratulations, you are playing an important role. You can bring the reality of life as coffee farmers to your customers and let them know how many millions of people are giving all their lives for that beautiful cup of coffee that the barista just made. It's a sweet feeling, tasting my coffees made by a barista anywhere in the world. It's a special connec- tion forever. 86 barista magazine

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