Serving People Serving Coffee Since 2005
Issue link: http://baristamagazine.epubxp.com/i/609699
Puerto Rico's Barista + Farmer Article by Kenneth R. Olson Photos by Julio Alejandro THE ROADS FROM THE COASTLINE wind up through the craggy jungle interior like rivers flowing backward looking for their source. The city with its traffic jams on multi-lane freeways fades away, and after a few miles, asphalt highways turn into narrow paved roads as the elevation increases, until they finally peter out into bumpy gravel tracks. Deep in the heart of Puerto Rico stand the highest mountain peaks, and the most remote towns and villages, and in among the canopy of trees and cacophony of bird songs and frog whistles, a few magnificent coffee farms welcome travelers. At one of those farms outside the town of Jayuya in the midst of the Caobey region, you can find the affable and charming Rebecca Atienza, the latest in her family's long line of coffee farmers. Crossing a stream, then climbing up by a big barn, where on one side hard-used tractors idle, and on the other a dry mill buzzes with activity, Rebecca smiles easily and laughs often, making weary visitors feel instant- ly comfortable and welcome. She works alongside her father, Roberto, in this rugged mountainous landscape on Hacienda San Pedro, the family's 360-acre farm. The farm spreads up steep slopes, some 120 acres of which are planted with coffee. The rest of the land grows plantain and citrus trees. "The farm is full of wildlife and beautiful forests," she says. "We are very lucky because the location, altitude, microclimate, and soil of our farm is ideal for a superior-quality coffee." The business has also grown to include a roastery and two cafés in Puerto Rico's capital, San Juan. Rebecca, with her family's help, creates a unique seed-to-cup chain. Their history and hers are entwined with the story of coffee, and the particular offshoot of that tale which is found on the island of Puerto Rico, a U.S. Commonwealth in the Caribbean Sea. Rebecca's tireless work has also been instrumental in the start-up, success, and growth of Barista & Farmer, the dream and realization of multi-time Italian Barista Champion Francesco Sanapo, who has worked with the Atienzas on their farm, to bring international baristas to origin to experience firsthand the rigorous work of coffee farming. The filmed real- ity series is heading into its third edition, which will take place in Brazil in 2016, after the enormous success of the first two series, in Honduras in 2015, and at Hacienda San Pedro for its first year, 2013. 51 www.baristamagazine.com